Fiber, Loom & Technique 2022-08-10T16:51:10+00:00 Christopher Buckley Open Journal Systems <p>The FLT online journal publishes peer-reviewed scholarly articles related to textile production and use in ethnographic and historical contexts. As our title suggests, our articles focus on material properties, aspects of textile making, as well as functions. The ranges of topics include loom-woven textiles, non-loom textiles and baskets, and non-woven materials such as bark-cloth and their associated material. Our intended readership consists of academics and lay-people with an interest in textiles.</p> <p>This journal is published by the <a href="">Tracing Patterns Foundation</a> in Berkeley, California, with the support of an <a href="">international editorial team</a>. We provide Open Access to read and download. You may submit articles through <a href="">registration</a>. We especially encourage scholars with English as a second language to make a submission as we provide basic English editing. Articles are published as soon as they have completed the editorial process, in the order they are received and edited. There is one 'Issue' per calendar year, with articles added on a rolling basis.</p> <p>If you would like to support this initiative, you can contribute your expertise as a reviewer (<a href="">contact us)</a> or make a <a href="">donation</a> to the Tracing Patterns Foundation. <a href="">More about the journal.</a></p> A techno-ethnography of Toraja-Mamasa tablet weavings from Sulawesi, Indonesia 2022-08-10T16:51:10+00:00 Keiko Kusakabe <p>This article focuses on the technique of tablet weaving, a particular method of weaving using a portable loom equipped with tablets, and its geographic distribution in Sulawesi. Specifically, it discusses the development of the technique in the highlands of Sulawesi, Indonesia, and compares the practices in the highlands with those in the lowlands and the bordering enclaves. This study is based on the author’s field research in the Toraja and Mamasa regions (1997 to 2017). The field research shows that current Mamasa weavers employs a unique system for manipulating the tablet, which has not been reported from any other place in the world. Part 1 of this article addresses the common misnomer of this unique tablet weaving as simply ‘Torajan’ or from ‘Sulawesi’ by showing a more accurate geographic distribution of tablet weaving in this island and proposes that the system should be called the Toraja-Mamasa tablet weaving. Part 1 further compares the Toraja-Mamasa tablet weaving in the highlands with the Bugis type in the lowlands and the interstitial Pitu-Ulunna-Salu type between the two regions.1 Part 2 describes in greater detail the tablet-weaving technique practiced in the Mamasa region today. It also puts the Toraja-Mamasa double-faced weave in global context by exploring four structural variations of the double-faced weave around the world.</p> 2022-08-10T00:00:00+00:00 Copyright (c) 2022 Fiber, Loom & Technique Palu’e basketry 2021-10-26T03:11:58+00:00 Stefan Danerek <p>This article discusses the basket inventory of the Palu’e (Palu’e Island, eastern Indonesia) in the comparative framework of the Flores linguistic-cultural chain. Fibers, technique, and usage are identified, with notes on current distribution and skill transmission. The basketry is made of lontar leaves by women, who are also responsible for the agricultural products that the baskets are mainly used for. The most common function and shared denominator of smaller basket types in the Palu’e-Flores cultures, shown with the aid of museum collection items, is to keep betel for chewing, highlighting its tremendous cultural importance. Decoration is limited to triangular curls/twists on mad weave (dense triaxial) works, while smoking adds color and makes the basketry more durable. Only the ceremonial head-strapped betel basket, common also on Flores, is decorated with supplementary objects, such as beads. This basket only is made with one of the other two main techniques, oblique checker work and twill. All the basketry, with few exceptions, is still in wide use, but makers of more intricate works tend to be elderly. Comparison with baskets on the main island of Flores shows that Palu’e basketry is a close affine to this tradition but with locally distinctive features. Future comparative research could consider geographic and linguistic proximity in cultural contacts as a significant element in skill transmission, which is otherwise vertical (via closest kin), and relationships with migration patterns to and from Flores.</p> 2022-02-23T00:00:00+00:00 Copyright (c) 2022 Fiber, Loom & Technique A 700-years old blue-and-white batik from Indonesia 2022-03-14T19:01:04+00:00 Sandra Sardjono Christopher Buckley <p>This article describes a blue-and-white batik found on Sulawesi that dates from the 13th or 14th century. The textile is a 3-meter-long banner in a fragmentary state, with a design of two guardian animals flanking a temple-like structure and large concave-diamond motifs. A reconstruction of the original design reveals a close relationship to double-ikat gringsing textiles from Bali and weft ikat textiles from Gresik in East Java and from Lampung in South Sumatra. Wax residues present on the cloth indicate that a wax resist technique, similar to contemporary batik, has been used. This article argues that the cloth was probably woven in India, but that the pattern was created in Java. It is the earliest material evidence (to date) for sophisticated batik production in Southeast Asia. This cloth offers a glimpse into the early history of batik in Java and its connection with double-ikat weaving traditions.</p> 2022-08-10T00:00:00+00:00 Copyright (c) 2022 Fiber, Loom & Technique