Fiber, Loom & Technique <p>The FLT online journal publishes peer-reviewed scholarly articles related to textile production and use in ethnographic and historical contexts. As our title suggests, our articles focus on material properties, aspects of textile making, as well as functions. The ranges of topics include loom-woven textiles, non-loom textiles and baskets, and non-woven materials such as bark-cloth and their associated material. Our intended readership consists of academics and lay-people with an interest in textiles.</p> <p>This journal is published by the <a href="">Tracing Patterns Foundation</a> in Berkeley, California, with the support of an <a href="">international editorial team</a>. We provide Open Access to read and download. You may submit articles through <a href="">registration</a>. We especially encourage scholars with English as a second language to make a submission as we provide basic English editing. Articles are published as soon as they have completed the editorial process, in the order they are received and edited. There is one 'Issue' per calendar year, with articles added on a rolling basis.</p> <p>If you would like to support this initiative, you can contribute your expertise as a reviewer (<a href="">contact us)</a> or make a <a href="">donation</a> to the Tracing Patterns Foundation. <a href="">More about the journal.</a></p> en-US (Christopher Buckley) (Sandra Sardjono) Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:46:49 +0000 OJS 60 A high point in the development of ancient Chinese pattern looms: the multiple heddle pattern device <p>Based on the evidence of archaeological excavations, the multi-heddle loom appears to be the first pattern loom invented by humankind. Its core technology stores and controls the pattern on multiple heddles and can be called a ‘multiple heddle pattern device’ or ‘multi-heddle patterning system’. In this article we explore multi-heddle looms from historical texts and ethnographic field investigations. First, we review the development of multi-heddle looms and put them in the context of the remarkable examples discovered in the Han Dynasty tomb at Laoguanshan. Finally, we summarize their historical status and significance. Within the historical of development of Chinese looms, the multi-heddle loom has a unique patterning device that integrates the advantages of several kinds of looms and is capable of producing many kinds of exquisite fabric. We conclude that the multiple heddle pattern loom was a necessary first step for the large scale production of patterned fabrics. Such looms established a technical foundation for the later technology of patterned silks that were traded along the Silk Road, as well as a gorgeous cultural heritage.</p> Bo LONG, Feng ZHAO Copyright (c) 2021 Fiber, Loom & Technique Fri, 23 Jul 2021 00:00:00 +0000 A 5th–6th century Sasanian silk taqueté with simurgh design: new analysis and hypothesis of early patterned weaving transmission in Eurasia <p>The structural analysis of an exceptional Sasanian unspun silk taqueté (weft-faced compound plain weave) from the Chris Hall collection confirms that a sophisticated loom equipped with a patterning system allowing for a mechanical pattern repeat in the weft direction was present in Central Asia as early as the 5th–6th century CE. In this article, comparisons are made with some important published fragments, and the technical aspects of luxurious silk compound weaving in the Silk Roads in the 5th–6th century CE are discussed, along with the introduction of unspun silk and the gradual spread of sericulture, silk yarn production, and silk weaving from East to West Eurasia. A hypothesis regarding the type of loom mechanism used to produce the taqueté weaving is also presented here, based around a zilu-type loom with a vertical warp; this is placed in the context of the development of patterning systems along the Silk Road region and technological exchanges that may have taken place. This line of technology development may have contributed to the appearance of fully-fledged drawlooms in both China and Central Asia.</p> Eric Boudot Copyright (c) 2021 Fiber, Loom & Technique Fri, 23 Jul 2021 00:00:00 +0000 An Indian Loom in Indonesia <p>A loom in use in Balai Cacang village in the Minangkabau region of Sumatra has an unusual warp suspension system, in which the warp is attached to a cord and tensioned around a pole. We show that this system is similar to that used on traditional Indian pit looms, and that it probably crossed the Indian Ocean to Indonesia. Indian influence on Indonesian textile forms is well-documented, but this is the first identification of an Indian loom technology in Indonesia. It implies the presence of Indian craftspeople in Indonesia in the past.</p> Sandra Sardjono; Christopher Buckley Copyright (c) 2021 Fiber, Loom & Technique Tue, 31 Aug 2021 00:00:00 +0000